BioInnovation: New research will contribute to a more sustainable textile industry

Swedish innovations can become global solutions for a sustainable textile industry. BioInnovation is now making a major investment initiative, with three sub-projects and a coordination project. The goal is to contribute to a more sustainable textile industry and to increase Sweden’s importance in this area.

Erik Perzon and Hanna de la Motte

Erik Perzon, IVL and Hanna de la Motte, RISE. Photo: Johan Olsson

These research projects have been designed by using a new working model. Various actors within the industry have contributed with insights and have had the opportunity to influence the project design through extensive feasibility studies and roundtable discussions.

– We have focused on the actual needs that exist within the industry, and this has resulted in a high degree of accuracy concerning the challenges we face. I believe that this approach will become a model for future investments, says Hanna de la Motte, Business and Innovation Area Manager at RISE, who will coordinate the Circular Textile Innovations Sweden research project.

The sub-project Chemical recycling of man-made cellulose fibres (MMCF) will study sorting technologies, handling of dyes and various recycling processes. The purpose is to examine how the fibres can be used in circular, non-toxic flows. Applications such as fibre-to-fibre textile recycling as well as using the fibres in packaging solutions or as chemical building blocks will be studied.

Maria Ström, the Loop Factory

Maria Ström, The Loop Factory. Photo: Pontus Törnqvist

– The global yearly growth of bio-based textile fibres like viscose, lyocell and modal is high and so is the need to develop efficient and robust recycling methods covering many different applications, says Maria Ström, business manager textile & innovation, The Loop Factory, who leads the project.

The sub-project Innovative fibres blends and yarn spinning techniques investigates new alternatives to fibre blends and new yarn spinning techniques.

– We need to increase the use of sustainable fibres and phase out unsustainable commercial materials such as fossil fibres or conventional cotton, says Erik Perzon, senior project manager for Textile, IVL, who leads the project.

The sub-project Mechanical textile recycling – Roadmap for Swedish process capacity is producing a roadmap that will contribute to an efficiently functioning, circular ecosystem for textile waste, and reduce the use of fossil raw materials.

– There is a potential for investment in textile recycling in Sweden. Many agree that there ought to be a textile recycling plant, but it has been unclear who would take the initiative, says Erik Perzon, senior project manager Textile, IVL, who also leads this project.

The Swedish textile industry went through a major crisis during the 1970s which led to 70,000 Swedish jobs being lost. Now, opportunities to make changes in an industry that is facing global challenges are being created.

– We need to resolve these issues and we don’t have much time. We know that there are big changes ahead for the textile industry. It takes projects with a wide scope, and many actors to achieve conversion and a societal effect, says Hanna de la Motte, of RISE.

Per Edström

Per Edström, BioInnovation. Photo: Johan Olsson.

Per Edström is the program manager at BioInnovation:

– The goal is to bring about a fundamental change in how textiles can become circular in Sweden. Changing the behaviour of consumers is a challenge, as is recycling textile materials at fibre level. Now the textile industry can become a forerunner and be an inspiration for other industries.

The trade association TEKO, is looking forward to following the projects from their angle:

Cecilia Tall, Teko

Cecilia Tall, Teko.

– The textile industry is facing major changes. The EU’s forthcoming textile strategy, and producer responsibility in Sweden, both mean that we are going to need to deal with our obsolete textiles and switch to new, sustainable, circular materials. This initiative is one piece of the puzzle towards resolving future challenges, and we are very much looking forward to seeing the ongoing results from the project, says Cecilia Tall, Secretary General of TEKO and member of Bioinnovation’s board.

 

Facts: Circular Textile Innovations (Sweden) – sustainable system change in the textile industry

 

Chemical recycling of man-made cellulose fibres (MMCF)
This project will study sorting technologies, dye management, and various recycling processes. Led by Maria Ström, Business manager textile & innovation at The Loop Factory, the project budget is SEK 6,670,000 spread over two and a half years.

Innovative fibre blends and yarn spinning techniques

This project will investigate new fibre blend alternatives and yarn spinning techniques. The project is led by Erik Perzon, senior project manager at Textil, IVL, with a budget of SEK 9,845,000 spread over two and a half years.

Mechanical textile recycling – Roadmap for Swedish process capacity

This project will clarify the conditions for establishing a Swedish commercial textile recycling plant. With a budget of SEK 4,415,000 spread over two years, the project is led by Erik Perzon, senior project manager at Textil, IVL.

A comprehensive coordination project will be responsible for communication and dissemination of results and information between the sub-projects.The coordination project is led by Hanna de la Motte, Business and Innovation Area Manager, at RISE.

Read more about the project!